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An Introduction to Yarns Used in Stockings-History

What are stockings made from? The simple answer is nylon and spandex.  Pick a stockings pack and check the content part, you will find these 2 words. Do we use these two materials from the beginning? Or in other words,  what about the history for material used for stockings?  Let’s hear this from Thriving, the leading stockings manufacturer in China.

Ancient time

Before people invented nylon and spandex, silk and linen are the main materials for stockings. Obviously only rich class especially royal members can afford silk. The earliest picture proof for silk stockings(called Chausses at the moment) , is in Charlemagne period, more than 1300 years ago.

Men loved stockings more than women

Modern Times

Dr. Carothers invented in 1935 in Dupont. An interesting thing is that originally it was not invented for stockings.  Guess what it is? Toothbrush! See the below advertisement. People treated this new nylon brush as a great invention!

First nylon toothbrush ads in 1938

However, due to its unprecedented lightness and elasticity, nylon soon became the new generation of material for stockings. All ladies were crazy for this new substitute of silk. When supply of nylon can not meet the needs due to world war II, that was how nylon riots happened.(more details in https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nylon_riots )

In 1959, spandex stepped onto the stage. Compared to nylon, it had more elasticity . This would bring the needed comfort for ladies. You may find this hard to believe. In memory, nylon seems to have sufficient elasticity. Here is an old video for your understanding.

               1959’s video about pure nylon stockings

If you are observant, you should have found somethings. In the video, these stockings of pure nylon are not as stretchy as today’s ones in the market. They  were very durable. However, they also look quite rigid with pretty little elasticity. That is why we say spandex’s role in stockings are quite important.

There is also another interesting story from the video. It is about stockings and pantyhose. Stockings are in 2 separate legs. This is the basic construction from its birth. Pantyhose are two legs sewn together. It didn’t come out untill 1959, Allen Gant made the first pair of pantyhose(called panti-legs at that time) for his preganant wife. Pantyhose became extremely popular in 1960s. At that time, mini skirt was the pop culture and pantyhose can provide better coverage.

Girls in mini skirts and pantyhose in 1964   

The Recent 50 Years

Nowadays, more than 80% of stockings in the market are pantyhose. From this angel, it is not accurate to use stockings to call all of the products. Especially when you are talking a pair of pantyhose.

A pair of pantyhose from Wolford

The last invention of yarns in stockings happened in Japan. Before that time, stockings manufacturer used nylon and spandex separately for stockings production. Hori Rukusuke, founder of ATSUGI, designed a machine that can combine the two yarns into one yarn before feeding them into the knitting machine. This is covered yarn! It can greatly improve the quality of stocking. From then on, covered yarn became the main material format. A bit more introduction to ATSUGI brand. It is still one of the leading stockings brands today. ATSUGI is also the partner of Thriving who is the leading stockings manufacturer in China, created covered yarn.

Covered yarn is 1 spandex inside with 1 or 2 nylon yarns wrapping outside.

 

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A new cycling helmet made in stockings

When 2022 Tour de France started from Copenhagen, audience gets the chance to enjoy very exciting races. Meanwhile, a new helmet appears in front of them. Some media define it as weird look thing. However, with the innovative sheer inner layer made by Thriving, the leading stockings supplier, the new helmet does help with the performance of riders.

According to Pierre Latour, this secret weapon can help save 26 seconds over a 40 km time trial. No wonder that is a quite obvious improvement considering the tight competition among riders. Wants to get more details about it?  Lee, R&D manager of Thriving,  the leading stockings supplier in China, will share the story with us.

The Headache for Riders

Traditional material for helmet’s inside part is foam with hole designs on both foam and helmet. This is for airflow and abstraction of heat in races.

Even with all these designs, the stickness between head and foam surface is still a headache. The sweat in races is the cause. Designers think adding an extra thin layer can be the cure. With creating more space for airflow,  it can also help with tidying up rider’s hair. A perfect one-stone-to-kill-two-birds solution while the key point is to find the right material.

Stockings, to be exact, sheer stockings fabric is the number 1 choice from the beginning. However, when this was first tried in Europe,designers soon found that it won’t do the work. Sheer stockings are too fragile. In hosiery words, laddering or running. just as what people feel about it. The project was on hold for a while.

Thriving’s Involvement

” When received the request from clients, I  think they made the right choice ” . Lee recalled the project with a satisfying smile. He is one of the veterans in stockings filed since 1995. Experiencing the peak and trough of the industry, Lee gained the instinct of finding the right answer to different requests. He chose ladder resist sheer stockings as the base fabric. This is a quite mature technology of Thriving who has been working with its Japanese yarn vendors from 2007. Marks & Spencer was the first brand that worked with Thriving for its product ranges(Check more on http://www.marksandspencer.com). With the special elastane used in it, ladder resist sheer stockings can prevent holes from laddering with still keeping the same stretchability and comfort(Thriving’s sheer stockings with this technology https://ytthriving.com/hosiery/). Most import thing for helmet layer is its durability. With lots of cutting and sewing, ladder resist fabric can ensure a reliable durability after all these manual operations. This makes a sheer but durable layer possible from a technical point of view.

Choosing the right fabric is the first step. Next move is to find the way of creating suitable shape for head and neck. It is not that easy to just knit a piece of stockings leg and used that as extra layer. “That will be just suitable for bank robbing!” Lee laughed for his explanation. “The volume of a leg is not large enough for head especially for a comfortable fitting to rider’s head. Therefore, we need to find other ways.”

The Process of Exploration

Lee soon found the panty part is the answer. In pantyhose stockings, panty part are two separate pieces joined together. The volume is sufficient for needs while still flexible enough for cutting and sewing. Lee cut a openning in the center for rider’s face. At the same time, he designed a closing on the two legs by extending the seaming from center to the very end. This made the initial prototype. “There are several rounds of adjusting sizes for fitting”, Lee said, “Good thing is sheer stockings fabric is so stretchy that a slight adjustment can do a big work. The process is not that torturing”

A new issue soon came to the table after trials. The extra layer was not able to bring enough air flow. Rider even felt the fabric was sticked to face more than the orginal foam surface. Lee put it on himself and tested the function in running for couple of times. Very quickly he figured out the reason. stockings were usually dyed with silicone softener for soft touch effect. However, in this layer product, silicone becomes a barrier for air flow as it created an invisible wall on the surface. By changing to a new eco-softener, Lee finally made the fabric effective for its designed function.

“Always no stop for innovation”, Lee says, “especially for stockings industry. I feel hard to admit that this industry is declining due to fashion trend but that is the fact. In this case, maybe only innovation can save the industry. That is why we still survive and stay as the leading stockings supplier”.